On a Junagadh trip, a friend once mentioned a hidden village – Jambur, home to people of African descent. Intrigued, I made it my mission to find them on my next visit. On my last trip to Gir, my driver, Vir, and I embarked on a mini-expedition. A few wrong turns and friendly inquiries later, we reached Jambur, a seemingly ordinary village unless you knew where to look. We found- a hidden gem waiting to be explored.
Jambur has been home for centuries to some of the African-origin Siddi tribes. Some say they arrived with the Arab traders in the 7th century, others believe the Portuguese brought them in the 17th century.
No matter when they arrived, their roots run deep in Africa. The Bantu people of Southeast Africa, some from Habsh (Abyssinia), carried their heritage and vibrant spirit. They served as sailors, mercenaries, and even slaves.
The Siddis soon embraced India. Since Islam was the prevalent religion, they followed new faith and adapted to the local environment. As per local lore, once a ship full of African slaves was shipwrecked off the coast of Gujarat. When they landed ashore and saw the lions of Gir, they thought they had reached Africa! But they were in for a shock. Gujarat became their new home. They speak fluent Gujarati and Hindi and eat local cuisine. They strictly marry within the community, and that’s how their features remain the same even after staying here for many centuries.
We reached Jambur around noon. As I entered the village, some curious villagers started asking who I was and what the purpose of my visit was… and that’s how we got talking and I learnt a little bit about them.
The villagers primarily survive on farming, they work in the farmlands of affluent farmers. The ladies mostly stay home and take care of the children.
There is a school where the kids’ study and learn multiple languages.
Ramzan, a villager who initially seemed hesitant to talk, warmed up to me and became my guide. He led me across the highway to another part of the village, bustling with activity.
It was a Sunday afternoon, and half of the village gathered at this place – some playing cards while others chatting and munching on something. Then a woman arrived with a unique local bhel recipe, and the villagers eagerly gathered around buying portions and relishing. It looked like one big happy family enjoying together. Soon another lady arrived with fruits and started selling them with lively charm. I was clicking them, capturing their raw energy and expressions, when I asked for their permission, they never asked for any money, some allowed some shared reservations.
Their warmth and friendliness were infectious. Offering food talking about their lives and asking me about myself the conversation was flowing. The fruit seller lady got oranges I bought some and offered them to the villagers around.
I didn’t feel like leaving this place but, I had a flight to catch from Rajkot, some 6 hours drive from the place so I had to bid adieu. Life for the Siddis wasn’t without hardship. Poverty, unemployment, and sometimes even discrimination cast a shadow on their lives. But through it all, their spirit remained unbroken. and I was a witness to their unbroken spirit – they were high on life, honest and beautiful inside out!
I hope they get education, employment and equal opportunities. Yes, now they have their voting rights and even fielding independent candidates. Progress is evident, and I pray for their continued advancement and prosperity.
