This place I have only heard, of as I faintly recall my daily soap-hogging days some 20 years back. So I started researching this place when a work trip came my way. And the first two things that fascinated me were – 1. The history of this place and 2. The fascinating photos of Mahabat Maqbara.
Junagadh boasts a history unlike any other, brimming with stories from diverse eras. Among these tales, the ones that particularly enthralled me were the ones with eccentricity woven into folklore.
The first one is about Sultan Bahadur Shah, in the 16th century, this ruler valiantly (or perhaps impulsively) defended his kingdom against both the Mughals and the Portuguese. Fearing a Mughal victory, legend says he sent away exotic treasures, jewels, and even his harem, intending to follow if Humayun won. However, the ships carrying these valuables were captured by the Sultan of Turkey, never to return!
And this one’s even more interesting…
During India’s independence, in a surprising move, the Nawab, Mahabat Khan III, opted to join Pakistan, despite nearly 500 kilometres of Indian territory separating him from his chosen nation. This decision, unpopular with the majority non-Muslim population, ultimately led to his exile. Interestingly, the story goes that he fled with his beloved dogs (a renowned canine lover, he hosted elaborate public weddings for them!), leaving his spouse behind. While the truth of this detail remains unclear, it adds another layer of intrigue to the tale.
Nawab builds the entire Junagadh city. And a walk through the streets would take you to a different era altogether.
The most unique and bizarre of all Junagadh’s buildings – is the 19th-century Mahabat Maqbara, built by Bahadur Khan III for his father Mahabat Khan II. The structure, a mixture of Indo-Saracenic or Islamic and Gothic architecture, is awesome. Not something you frequently get to see. Next to it is the elaborate Bahauddin Maqbara (built-in 1878-92) with its elegant corkscrew towers straight out of a fairy tale. I stood awestruck… What beautiful workmanship! It felt as if I had reached a fairy tale land…
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